The dresses are short! Or long. Gothic black is back! And so is minimalist white. Today, looks don’t rotate in and out, but rather evolve – one idea quickly develops onto the next, giving you more and more choices to choose from. Here are the catwalk talking points that will define the AW22:
The look: Tweed 3.0
“Dedicating the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,” says Virginie Viard, who went so far as to upholster the Chanel show venue in different shades of the fabric. This was where the reverence stopped, though: the Queen of the Highlands was not (although the fishing waders made a surprise appearance on the trail). This season’s version of the trend is sweet but not cheesy, sophisticated yet playful, with an upbeat and thoroughly youthful spirit. Do tweed shorts fit the office, anyone?
The trend: school uniform
Pleated checked kilts, Peter-Pan collars, semi-untied ties, white tights and gym shirts – the AW22 produced many looks designed to hide behind bicycle sheds. A lightheartedness of the sixties characterized the Miu Miu show: these are styles for girls too cool for school.
The detail: tied
The printed silk scarf comes on this season. Contrasting colors and contrast, because anything is allowed, as long as you master the Sloane Ranger knot. Alternatively, reinforce it with a leather tie.
The silhouette: Gender neutral
The lines are blurry when it comes to gender dressing. What works now is a flexible view of men’s and women’s fashion, using timeless tailoring as a starting point for subverting style norms, as seen at Erdem: ‘I was thinking of Weimar Berlin’s avant-garde expressionism. Imagining characters like dancer Anita Berber and how she would wear a dress. I liked the idea of showing the same tailored silhouettes on both men and women – they are fluid and interchangeable. ‘
The piece: On the edge
The debut of Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta was full of infallible successes. But the highlight of this season’s street style will surely be her fringed leather midi skirt. ‘Bottega Veneta is pragmatic in its essence, as it is a leather goods company. Since he specializes in handbags, it’s all about moving and going somewhere. Basically there is an idea of craftsmanship in motion, “he says, of his inspiration for the swinging fringe.” It’s style over fashion in its timelessness. That’s part of his silent power. ”
The length: short and sweet
A youthful earthquake of mini dresses appeared on the AW22 runways, where the rebellion of the sixties collided with the exuberance of the thirties in a pastel-colored show that was anything but sickly. Miu Miu hit high hems again, but sweet little looks were everywhere from Loewe to Simone Rocha. ‘My most recent collection was originally influenced by the [Irish myth] Sons of Lir. Children transform when they are still small and I wanted youth and naivety to translate into the silhouette. So some of the hems have become very teenage, very micro, ‘says Rocha.
The accessory: high club
“The higher the better” is the motto of this season’s footwear. These are styling boots with miniskirts and dresses – watch out for metallic and jewel tones.
The shape: maxi coats
We don’t usually like style diktats, but the AW22 made one thing clear: when in doubt, throw a long, dry coat over it.
The statement: Catsuit vs body
How short, tight, cut and transparent can you go? This is a trend for those who dare to strip.
The mood: I see through you
Bold necklines, slender petticoats dotted with delicate sequins and sumptuous lace pieces dominated the runways this season. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ version featured crystal-studded mesh garments, while Erdem’s 1930s-inspired collection included numerous translucent lace dresses.
The texture: pull the wool
It’s time to turn down the heat and move on to dressing up. From coats to cardigans, two-pieces and twin sets, everything is fine as long as it’s knitted.
The atmosphere: Quite punk
Rebellion is always a good idea. Punk energy flows through the AW22: underwear got tough with crystal embellishments, vinyl boots gave babydoll silhouettes an edge, and female subversion was everywhere. If you take on only one element, make it the Miu Miu velvet and diamond necklace.
The return: Corsetry
Last season’s sexual obsession went from hot to haute for the AW22. Attaching a corset over a tone-on-tone top is the new way to do body-con.
The moment: Oh my God
To hell with skin this season – make sure it’s black, smooth and super shiny. More protective than provocative, the styles of the AI22 resemble a kind of bulletproof vest. From Dior and Balmain’s military-inspired corsetry to Dolce & Gabbana’s wraparound coats and colorful visors and Alexander McQueen’s shiny combat boots, embrace the dark side.
This article appears in the September 2022 issue of ELLE, available on newsstands July 28.
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